Written Report

The research of Kenzo recalls my first impression of it, my cousin's fragrance—flower by KENZO. A bright red flower in a streamlined, colourless bottle. At that time I didn't know it is poppy, but the red colour imprinted on my memory.
Now I realize that poppy is the signature flower of Kenzo.


“A nomadic flower, taking root in the asphalt. A flower in the city.”
“In the city, a red flower has appeared. Simple and beautiful. Delicate and strong. Unexpected.”
“...No one plants or chooses me. I simply grow. Anywhere, scattered here and there, so delicate, I am picked and I delight, I am left and I bloom.”
Source: http://www.kenzoparfums.com/EN/home/home_EN.html

It also represents the corporate colour of Kenzo—red, which come from the Mother of Nature and the style of Kenzo, inspired by nature environment and treasure different cultures.

Therefore in our analysis of the Kenzo (2004-2009 Ready to Wear Collection), we find that red colour takes an important seat in every collection, no matter it is Spring Summer or Autumn Winter. There may have adjustments in the amount of usage in respond to the theme of that particular collection such as in 2006 Spring Summer Collection the theme is about voyage and nautical style thereby the proportion of blue is more than red. But in 2007 Autumn Winter Collection the theme is about Tango with energetic and exotic feeling, red plays a much more important role.

Actually for Autumn Winter collection, red mostly incorporate with black and white (with variations along the gray scale) or others receding colours, contrasting effect takes place which make the colour red sprinkling on the stage in a vivid way.

As for Spring Summer collection , compares with Autumn Winter trends to be more colourful especially for 2007(5 hues with variations in value and chroma). Even though red is not necessary to be the main actress, it appears in a discreet way to unify the whole collection. Or more accurately is that red is being modified by white and black into pink (2009 Spring Summer Collection) and maroon respectively. The hue is still red.

Therefore both related and contrasting colour scheme can be finding in the collection of Kenzo from 2004 to 2009.

In order to create harmony especially using with lots of different colour and under contrasting colour scheme such as the Spring Summer Collection of 2007, the principle of order can ensure that colours will not incongruous with the rest of the colour scheme in other word avoidances of ambiguity.

While under related colour scheme, the principle of resemblance can strengthen the feeling of harmony and incorporate with repetition of colour, sequence of colour and emphasis of colour which can add a special touch to the whole collection without boring.

Mentioned before the corporate colour—red is from poppy thereby we can always see that the principle of familiarity is widely used.

Follow the routine of Autumn Winter Collection, my collection sticks to the corporate colour of Kenzo— red and integrates with achromatic. It is under related colour scheme—monochromatic—red and along the grey scale. The principle of resemblance is the core of my collection. And rely on it, I try to take an advanced step to apply skill of transition of colour with hues slide smoothly from red to achromatic, while values fades from dark to light and intensity melts from bright to dull. The purpose is to represent the tragic life of Lin Daiyu: red is her tearful life and black is her death.

My collection starts with red in the pure hue and ends with achromatic. Along the gradual line of transition it is similar with cinnabar which is the colour of Su Shi's Red Bamboo. Therefore principle of familiarity is also applied in my collection.

Harmony of colour is created not only because of using related colour scheme (monochromatic—red and along grey scale) with principle of familiarity, principle of resemblance and principle of transition; conveying a consistent feeling—Redemption with tearful love plays a remarkable role.

To conclude, using traditional Chinese novel's main character, Lin Daiyu, with the a sobriquet as Scion of Hsiao-hsiang / Lady of Bamboo to be the soul of my collection is to respond to the voice of Kenzo's signature flower—poppy. And pay much attention on red not only because it is corporate colour of Kenzo, it has remarkable meaning in traditional Chinese society.

Reasons of colour selection for the Fall Winter Forecasting Collection

First and for most, it is based on the corporate colour of Kenzo that is red.

Red colour appears in every collection no matter it is Spring Summer or Autumn Winter. The amount of usage may not be the most in the whole collection but definitely is the most eyes catching.

Especially for Autumn Winter collection, red mostly incorporate with black and white (with variations along the gray scale) or others receding colours, contrasting effect takes place which make the colour red sprinkling on the stage in a spectacular way.

Second, is to integrate with the theme of my collection— Redemption with tearful love. The image of Lin Daiyu is exclusive in the "red dust". Her love with Jia Baoyu defies the authority of theirs family. And inspired by the practice of Su Shi's Red Bamboo. The colour usage for the whole collection must break through Chinese traditional colour symbolism. Red doesn't mean happy, exciting and celebratory. Her sadness and gloominess should not be represented by the general accepted dark and dull blue (low chroma and value). Red is her pain and tear but also her life. The gradual changes in value and chroma of the collection means Lin Daiyu is burying her life in a discreet way. The wedding date of Jia Baoyu and Xue Baochai (薛寶釵) is the day of Lin Daiyu's death. Eventually achromatic are used because no matter how inimitable she is, she still follow the original life cycle of mankind. True neutrals including black, greys and white are used to represent her funeral.

Last but definitely not the least, is referring to the information provided by the professional colour forecasting agency. And according to the trend book of Pecler Paris (TT518 .P42 bk.21 2009b) and the presentation of the representative of Pecler Paris on 25th of November, 2008; I discover that functional basic (achromatic) and red hue with variations in value and chroma will be popular in Fall Winter 2009.

Therefore the whole Fall Winter Colour Forecasting Collection of Kenzo is only red in colour.

My Fall Winter Colour Forecasting Collection of Kenzo

Theme: Redemption with tearful love
This collection reflects the tragic life of Lin Daiyu. She is the Scion of Hsiao-hsiang/ Lady of Bamboo with unique personalities lone and proud and red is selected to represent her.

A) Colour family for the whole collection

Related Colour Scheme
1. Achromatic: Black (Black 3 2X), Grey (Cool Grey 8 and 4), White (PMS803)
Monochromatic
2. One Primary Colour: Red (Red032) with variations in value and chroma (PMS1797, 1807, 188, 1817 and 195)

The major colour in use is red, and achromatic are used to bring it out. Meanwhile the backdrop is a bamboo forest in green which is contrasted with red can further emphasis it.

Before Lin Daiyu redeems Jia Baoyu with tears, the red bamboois fresh (Red032—pure hue at its home value which is the brightest stage).

When she meets Jia Baoyu, every time she cries; the red bamboo loses water (the value of red changes from high to low PMS1797 to 195).
Time flies the red bamboo loses luster (there is a trade off between black and white: reducing white but adding black, the chroma of red is descending from Red032 to 1817).

At the end of the day, Lin Daiyu dies as well as the red bamboo; achromatic dominate (along the grey scale: Black 3 2X, Cool Grey 8 and 4 and PMS803).

B) Principle of colour usage
The major colour red with variations in value and chroma and selecting achromatic along the grey scale are based on the principle of resemblance and the principle of familiarity.

At the same time to represent the life of Lin Daiyu, principle of transition of colour is applied with hues slide smoothly from red (life) to achromatic (death), while values fades from dark to light and intensity melts from bright to dull.
Harmony of colour is created not only because of using related colour scheme (monochromatic—red and along the grey scale) with principle of familiarity, principle of resemblance and principle of transition; conveying a consistent feeling—Redemption with tearful love plays a remarkable role.

C) Development

Inspirations of Kenzo Fall Winter Colour Forecasting Collection

First inspiration: Dream of the Red Chamber 紅樓夢
The love story of Jia Baoyu and Lin Daiyu. In the heaven, Divine Attendant-in-Waiting (神瑛侍者) watered a Crimson Pearl Flower (絳珠仙子). Later then born of them reincarnated in the “red dust” (紅塵) as Jia Baoyu and Lin Daiyu respectively. The purpose of Lin Daiyu mortal birth is to repay the water that Baoyu watered as her tears to Baoyu.
Because she lived in the the Hsiao-hsiang Hall(瀟湘館) of the Great View Garden(大觀園), her sobriquet is Scion of Hsiao-hsiang / Lady of Bamboo(瀟湘子).

And the fortune of Lin Daiyu can be traced by the following poem:

花謝花飛花滿天，紅消香斷有誰憐？游絲軟繫飄春榭，落絮輕沾撲繡簾。
簾中女兒惜春暮，愁緒滿懷無處訴，手把花鋤出繡簾，忍踏落花來復去？
柳絲榆莢自芳菲，不管桃飄與柳飛。桃李明年能再發，明歲閨中知有誰？
三月香巢已壘成，梁閒燕子太無情！明年花發雖可啄，卻不道人去梁空巢也傾。
一年三百六十日，風刀霜劍嚴相逼，明媚鮮妍能幾時？一朝飄泊難尋覓。
花開易見落難尋，階前悶殺葬花人，獨倚花鋤淚暗灑，灑上花枝見血痕。
杜鵑無語正黃昏，荷鋤歸去掩重門。青燈照壁人初睡，冷雨敲窗被未溫。
怪奴底事倍傷神，半為憐春半惱春。憐春忽至惱忽去，至又無言去不聞。
昨宵庭外悲歌發，知是花魂與鳥魂。花魂鳥魂總難留，鳥自無言花自羞。
願奴脅下生雙翼，隨花飛到天盡頭。天盡頭，何處有香坵？
未若錦囊收艷骨，一抔冷土掩風流。質本潔來還潔去，強於污淖陷渠溝。
爾今死去奴收葬，未卜奴身何日亡？奴今葬花人笑痴，他年葬奴知是誰？
試看春殘花漸落，便是紅顏老死時。一朝春盡紅顏老，花落人亡兩不知！
From Chapter 27 At the mound of buried fragrance Fei-yen weeps for the decaying red (埋香冢飛燕泣殘紅)


消,青燈,冷土,污淖,殘: Dull, lower chroma
鮮,艷: Bright, high value and chrome



Second Inspiration: Black and Red Bamboos
A little story of Su Shi (蘇軾) a very famous artist of Song Dynasty.
He dipped a brush with cinnabar to draw bamboos. Some one argued that all the bamboos are green in colour, they must not be red. The respond of Su Shi of was that we used to draw bamboos with black ink, is it mean there are black bamboos. Most Chinese are trapped by the frame of colour symbolism, but Su Shi could break it and create his own masterpiece.
Source: http://www.ourartnet.com/araarts/arts-K/k03/k0305003.htm

Finding of Colour Forecasting (Autumn Winter 2008/2009)

• Cool pink-cast neutrals exude a powdery nuance, whereas reds are sharply cosmetic.

• The essence of warm yellow this season is soft and richly creamy.

• Grey/green yellows have a dry, olivey patina.

• Blues have a crisp, chilled air about them, progressing through greyish purple tinges culminating with an intense violet blue.

• Perennial greens, such as Eucalyptus, are cool and sophisticated and have an opaque greyish hue, while darkest evergreens are foiled with a vibrant teal.

• Heathery purples are cast with mauve and mulberry hues, electrified with the shock of cerise pink.

• Browns are subtly tonal, from the warmest Umber through to the bitterest Stout.

Source : http://www.wgsn-edu.com/edu/edu-members/

Consumers' Lifestyles & Mass Customization

Schoolmate A

1. Lifestyles

Read comic, watch movies (local production), window shopping, sing karaoke

and work as a babysitting

2. Mass Customization

Clothes from H&M, Samsung cell phone,Fujitsu notebook and with facebook account

3. Colour Perference

Blue, Black, Grey and White

Schoolmate B

1. Lifestyles

Dance and teach ballet, eat Japanese food, shopping, shopping and sing karaoke

2. Mass Customization

Ballet shoes of Capezio and Bloch, clothes from IT and Zara, D&G glasses, Addidas watch, Sharp cell phone and with a facebook account

3. Colour Preference

Black, Grey and White

Driving Forces of Fashion

Mood Board

Red

Colour in Textiles

Hayao Miyazaki special "Only Yesterday" is an animation based on the rural area of Yamagata Prefecture, Japan.
In this animation I first notified the traditional dyeing industry of Japan. The production of safflower-dye (Beni), which is vivid crimson, is not an easy task from picking the safflowers with bared hands, to oxidate with water, dry under the sun and compress the mortar to get the dye.

Recently a Japan cosmetic company introduced a new lipstick with safflower as the raw material. This lipstick is very expensive.

Source: Oriental daily

Actually the dyeing industry of Japan is now facing a hard time due to the dramatic increase in production. Properly this will lead to shortage of dyes for high quality blue and black dyeing.

Source: Ming Pao

Designing Colour Collection

Final Selection

Summary of Kenzo (2004-2009 Ready to Wear Collection)

Except 2004 Spring and Summer Collection, all the following collections were designed by Antonio Marras.

2009
http://deniseyeung.blogspot.com/2008_10_05_archive.html
2008
http://deniseyeung.blogspot.com/2008_09_28_archive.html
http://colorandfashiontrends.blogspot.com/2008/10/blog-post.html
2006
http://07346647d.blogspot.com/2008/10/analysisdata-of-kenzo-2006-fw.html
http://07346647d.blogspot.com/2008/10/analysisdata-of-kenzo-2006-ss-fw.html
2005
http://07091199d.blogspot.com/2008/10/kenzo-fall-2005.html
http://07091199d.blogspot.com/2008/10/kenzo-2005-spring-collection.html
2004
http://07336214d.blogspot.com/2008/10/kenzo-collection-2004.html
http://07336214d.blogspot.com/2008/10/kenzo-colletions-in-2004.html

The corporate colour of Kenzo is Red. Red colour appears in every collection no matter it is Spring&Summer or Autumn&Winter. The amount of usage may not be the most in the whole collection but definitely is the most eyes catching.

Especially for Autumn&Winter collection, mostly incorporate with black and white (with variations along the gray scale) or others receding colours, contrasting effect takes place which make the colour Red sprinkling on the stage in a spectacular way.

As for Spring&Summer collection, compares with Autumn&Winter trends to be more colourful (>5 hues with variations in value and chroma). Even though Red is not necessary to be the main actress, it appears in a discreet way to unify the whole collection. Or more accurately is that Red is being modified by white and black into pink and maroon respectively. The hue is still Red.

Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2007

Theme: The world of Eva Peron –Tango, Gaucho and Pampa

Inspiration: Latin Culture

Designer: Antonio Marras

http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/show.aspx/full-length-photos/id,4509

A) Colour family For the whole collection

Related colour scheme
1. Achromatic: Black, Grey and White
Contrasting colour scheme (Adjacent complementary)
2. One primary colour: Red
3. One secondary colour: Green
4. One tertiary colour: Blue-Green

The major colour of the whole collection is black. Black appears in almost every garment. The second major colour is White, followed by Red , Green and Blue-Green; Grey is the least.

B) Principle of colour usage
Based on the Principle of Order using both achromatic and adjacent complementary colour scheme, there are two assistant principles:

1. Sequence of colour

2. Alternation of colour

And the Principle of Resemblance also plays an important role with variations of Black and White along the gray scale.

Last but not least is the Principle of Familiarity.

Using colours from both sides of the colour wheel (aggressive colour—Red; receding colours –Green, Blue-Green) make the whole collection eye catching and achromatic (Black, Grey and White) enhance harmony.

Finding of Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2007

Antonio Marras' Bull Run At Kenzo

DALLAS, May 9, 2007/ FW/ --- When Antonio Marras debuted at Kenzo during the Fall 2004 season, he took his audience to a trip around the world, building on the multi-cultural DNA of the Kenzo maison.

Marras has been on the road since then, journeying to Africa and the Sahara desert. He crossed the Atlantic and the Pacific on an old-fashioned steamboat to bring us to Japan and China. And for Fall 2007, he delved into the Latin culture of the Bull Run, getting matadors and senoritas in Europe and the Americas.

It's multi-ethnic, but bound by one thing, the ‘corrida de toros’ or bullfighting, the ‘montera’, a hat traditionally worn by bullfighters and the ‘Traje de Luces’ or suits of lights. And, from Southern France, in Nimes and Arles, the roses, which are tied on the bull’s horns.

So, Marras created bigger than life red rose prints and turned them into floor-length gowns that are layered, inspired by the costume of the Spanish senorita. The roses were also found on knitted vests as 3-D adornments.

The gaucho pants also made it, done in red, adorned with golden grommets on the legs and teamed with a bush jacket. Trousers are pencil slim, just like the matador's costume.

The matador vest was reworked, proposing them as bustiers that worn outside. Done in red tartan and black & white checks, it emphasized the waist and the hourglass silhouette.
The matador cape, or the Traje de Luces, sans the sequins became smock and trench coats, with the sequins replaced by floral embroidery or appliqué. The ‘capote de paseo’ or dress cape was incorporated in suit jackets as elaborate sleeves. It was also reworked as puff sleeves for dresses.

Even the bull found its way on the skirts and blouses, even on the coats, not as an illustration, but the pattern of their coat or skin.

And though some fashion pundits would say that the wide belts are actually corset belts, they were actually inspired by the gaucho cowboys' belts that are usually wide.

It's a true bull run, with its high energy and excitement and the mystique exuded by the matador and bullfighting itself.

http://www.fashionwindows.com/runway_shows/kenzo/f071.asp

Kenzo Spring/Summer 2007

Theme: Love Affair with the Desert

Inspiration: Henri Matissehe, the founder of the fauvist art movement, which was recognized by simplified lines, deep bright colours and expressive spontaneity that gave the paintings real vibrant emotion.

Designer: Antonio Marras

http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/show.aspx/full-length-photos/id,4106/Page,1

A) Colour family For the whole collection

Contrasting colour scheme (Triad, Complementary)
1. Three primary colours: Red, Yellow and Blue
2. Two secondary colours: Green and Pink Variations in value and chroma of red violet
Related colour scheme

3. Achromatic: Black and White

At the first glance, the sight was attracted by the deep bright colours (Red, Yellow, Blue, Green and Pink).But in a deeper sense, over 50% are dominated by achromatic (Black and White), the second major are Red and Green which are counted for about 30% and the remaining 20% are shared by Yellow, Blue and Pink.

B) Principle of colour usage

The main principle is the Principle of Order. There is an orderly plan: using deep bright colour (Red, Yellow, Blue, Green and shocking pink) to complement achromatic (Black and White) and two assistant principles:

1. Alternation of colour

2. Sequence of colour

And some other principles are scattered in the whole collection such as,

3. Principle of Resemblance

4. Principle of Novelty

Even lots of colours are used in the whole collection, variety of values (light and dark) and chromas (bright and dull) all help to balance colour schemes. The principle of order enables the combination of colour in a systematic way thereby harmony is created.

Finding of Kenzo Spring/Summer 2007

Love Affair With The Desert

PARIS, Oct 11, 2006/ FW/ --- With Antonio Marras, a collection is not just a set of clothes for the season, it is also poetry in motion, the lines of the poem defined by the clothes, the beauty is seen from the outside and also perceived between the lines as each model passes by.

The stage set was elaborate; a scene from the desert, the starkness of its beauty hits you the moment you walk in. The blue sky is the backdrop and the soft music of a love song; about two lovers separated and will meet again in the same place they said goodbye to each other filled the air.

The first model walks in, her steps measured as in thought, her face somber. She wears a shocking pink pantsuit set; the trousers relaxed but hip hugging. The top was a long – sleeved black & white stripes layered with a short-cropped green vest. She wore the traditional headdress of an African woman.

As each model passes, you perceive her as the same woman, lovelorn and missing her love, waiting for her lover to come back. She passes the same path everyday, always somber, but sometimes wear a small smile.

You see her whole wardrobe, from the 1950s inspired swimsuits to off-the-shoulder blouses and A-line skirts, to short paired with a suit jacket, to ¾ sleeves printed minis with a deep V-neckline inspired by the traditional Moroccan costume.

She wears wedge heels that sometimes come as a full shoe or as sandals. Her purses ranged from tiny to hold just a pair of sunglasses, or a clasp or a tubular tote to hold a beach towel.

At night, she sometimes wears an all white pantsuit set, the trousers slim and with a cummerbund belt, the top an off-the-shoulder V-neck encrusted with crystals.

She's hauntingly beautiful, her clothes poetically stunning. And as she brings us through the whole summer, from day to night, from work to play, she continues to be the woman in love.

The ending was dramatic. A loose-fitting gown in floral printed chiffon, the train about 25 feet long! The music reaches its crescendo; the woman speaks, talking about her lost love and her long wait for his return.

It was as magical as the desert that inspired it and Antonio Marras's poetry when it comes to his creations has no rival!

http://www.fashionwindows.com/runway_shows/kenzo/s071.asp

Colour and Culture

All men in suit are almost the same: Black suit jacket, Black trousers, Black leather shoes and Black suitcast, except their dress shirt and tie. Their colours add a special touch to differentiate every white collar.

Fashion Boutique

In order to build up an energetic mood, the interior design of this fashion boutique is based on double complementary colour scheme.
When red-violet (PMS208) and violet(PMS266) in contact with theirs complementary hues yellow-green(PMS360) and yellow(PMS109.106) they look vivid and creat excitement. In addition netural gray tone (Cool grey 1) and pink in grey tone(PMS217) are used to balance this contrasting colour scheme thereby a humorous, youth, sporty feeling is created.

Application of Colour Theories and Principles

Based on the Principle of Resemblance, colours are chosen from analogous colour scheme: they are blue green and yellow green. Both of them are tertiary colours.

PMS318 and PMS372 are the lowest value among all. They are tints with certain amount of white added to the original hue blue green and yellow green respectively. While PMS281and PMS378 are shades with various amount of black added to the original hue blue green and yellow green respectively. In terms of saturation, PMS281 and PMS378 are low chroma while PMS3015 and PMS357 are high chroma. Therefore monochromatic colour scheme is also applied with blue green and yellow green in different value and chroma.

And PMS378 uses in more than once helps to unify the whole collection in a discreet way which is enlightened by the principle of Repetition of Colour.

Burberry Check Pattern

For the general public red, khaki, white and black check is equivalent to Burberry Check. But it means more in colour analysis.
Actually the Burberry check pattern contains 10 colours instead of 4 colours.
Under monochromatic colour scheme, there are two khaki colours in different chroma.
For red, more accurately is rose. Under analogous colour scheme, rose is the base colour and three adjacent colour peach and red violet (which contains 2 colors of different value and chroma developed under monochromatic colour scheme) are selected.
Furthermore khaki, rose, peach and red violet come from the warm side of the colour wheel and develop under analogous colour scheme. The sense of harmonious is created.
Even black and white don't have chroma, the colour is selected along the gray scale show graduate variations.
Using warm colours with achromatic, make each other look brighter. This is the main reason why Burberry check pattern is so appealing.