Finding of Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2007

Antonio Marras' Bull Run At Kenzo

DALLAS, May 9, 2007/ FW/ --- When Antonio Marras debuted at Kenzo during the Fall 2004 season, he took his audience to a trip around the world, building on the multi-cultural DNA of the Kenzo maison.

Marras has been on the road since then, journeying to Africa and the Sahara desert. He crossed the Atlantic and the Pacific on an old-fashioned steamboat to bring us to Japan and China. And for Fall 2007, he delved into the Latin culture of the Bull Run, getting matadors and senoritas in Europe and the Americas.

It's multi-ethnic, but bound by one thing, the ‘corrida de toros’ or bullfighting, the ‘montera’, a hat traditionally worn by bullfighters and the ‘Traje de Luces’ or suits of lights. And, from Southern France, in Nimes and Arles, the roses, which are tied on the bull’s horns.

So, Marras created bigger than life red rose prints and turned them into floor-length gowns that are layered, inspired by the costume of the Spanish senorita. The roses were also found on knitted vests as 3-D adornments.

The gaucho pants also made it, done in red, adorned with golden grommets on the legs and teamed with a bush jacket. Trousers are pencil slim, just like the matador's costume.

The matador vest was reworked, proposing them as bustiers that worn outside. Done in red tartan and black & white checks, it emphasized the waist and the hourglass silhouette.
The matador cape, or the Traje de Luces, sans the sequins became smock and trench coats, with the sequins replaced by floral embroidery or appliqué. The ‘capote de paseo’ or dress cape was incorporated in suit jackets as elaborate sleeves. It was also reworked as puff sleeves for dresses.

Even the bull found its way on the skirts and blouses, even on the coats, not as an illustration, but the pattern of their coat or skin.

And though some fashion pundits would say that the wide belts are actually corset belts, they were actually inspired by the gaucho cowboys' belts that are usually wide.

It's a true bull run, with its high energy and excitement and the mystique exuded by the matador and bullfighting itself.

http://www.fashionwindows.com/runway_shows/kenzo/f071.asp