Colour in Textiles

Hayao Miyazaki special "Only Yesterday" is an animation based on the rural area of Yamagata Prefecture, Japan.
In this animation I first notified the traditional dyeing industry of Japan. The production of safflower-dye (Beni), which is vivid crimson, is not an easy task from picking the safflowers with bared hands, to oxidate with water, dry under the sun and compress the mortar to get the dye.

Recently a Japan cosmetic company introduced a new lipstick with safflower as the raw material. This lipstick is very expensive.

Source: Oriental daily

Actually the dyeing industry of Japan is now facing a hard time due to the dramatic increase in production. Properly this will lead to shortage of dyes for high quality blue and black dyeing.

Source: Ming Pao

Designing Colour Collection

Final Selection

Summary of Kenzo (2004-2009 Ready to Wear Collection)

Except 2004 Spring and Summer Collection, all the following collections were designed by Antonio Marras.

2009
http://deniseyeung.blogspot.com/2008_10_05_archive.html
2008
http://deniseyeung.blogspot.com/2008_09_28_archive.html
http://colorandfashiontrends.blogspot.com/2008/10/blog-post.html
2006
http://07346647d.blogspot.com/2008/10/analysisdata-of-kenzo-2006-fw.html
http://07346647d.blogspot.com/2008/10/analysisdata-of-kenzo-2006-ss-fw.html
2005
http://07091199d.blogspot.com/2008/10/kenzo-fall-2005.html
http://07091199d.blogspot.com/2008/10/kenzo-2005-spring-collection.html
2004
http://07336214d.blogspot.com/2008/10/kenzo-collection-2004.html
http://07336214d.blogspot.com/2008/10/kenzo-colletions-in-2004.html

The corporate colour of Kenzo is Red. Red colour appears in every collection no matter it is Spring&Summer or Autumn&Winter. The amount of usage may not be the most in the whole collection but definitely is the most eyes catching.

Especially for Autumn&Winter collection, mostly incorporate with black and white (with variations along the gray scale) or others receding colours, contrasting effect takes place which make the colour Red sprinkling on the stage in a spectacular way.

As for Spring&Summer collection, compares with Autumn&Winter trends to be more colourful (>5 hues with variations in value and chroma). Even though Red is not necessary to be the main actress, it appears in a discreet way to unify the whole collection. Or more accurately is that Red is being modified by white and black into pink and maroon respectively. The hue is still Red.

Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2007

Theme: The world of Eva Peron –Tango, Gaucho and Pampa

Inspiration: Latin Culture

Designer: Antonio Marras

http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/show.aspx/full-length-photos/id,4509

A) Colour family For the whole collection

Related colour scheme
1. Achromatic: Black, Grey and White
Contrasting colour scheme (Adjacent complementary)
2. One primary colour: Red
3. One secondary colour: Green
4. One tertiary colour: Blue-Green

The major colour of the whole collection is black. Black appears in almost every garment. The second major colour is White, followed by Red , Green and Blue-Green; Grey is the least.

B) Principle of colour usage
Based on the Principle of Order using both achromatic and adjacent complementary colour scheme, there are two assistant principles:

1. Sequence of colour

2. Alternation of colour

And the Principle of Resemblance also plays an important role with variations of Black and White along the gray scale.

Last but not least is the Principle of Familiarity.

Using colours from both sides of the colour wheel (aggressive colour—Red; receding colours –Green, Blue-Green) make the whole collection eye catching and achromatic (Black, Grey and White) enhance harmony.

Finding of Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2007

Antonio Marras' Bull Run At Kenzo

DALLAS, May 9, 2007/ FW/ --- When Antonio Marras debuted at Kenzo during the Fall 2004 season, he took his audience to a trip around the world, building on the multi-cultural DNA of the Kenzo maison.

Marras has been on the road since then, journeying to Africa and the Sahara desert. He crossed the Atlantic and the Pacific on an old-fashioned steamboat to bring us to Japan and China. And for Fall 2007, he delved into the Latin culture of the Bull Run, getting matadors and senoritas in Europe and the Americas.

It's multi-ethnic, but bound by one thing, the ‘corrida de toros’ or bullfighting, the ‘montera’, a hat traditionally worn by bullfighters and the ‘Traje de Luces’ or suits of lights. And, from Southern France, in Nimes and Arles, the roses, which are tied on the bull’s horns.

So, Marras created bigger than life red rose prints and turned them into floor-length gowns that are layered, inspired by the costume of the Spanish senorita. The roses were also found on knitted vests as 3-D adornments.

The gaucho pants also made it, done in red, adorned with golden grommets on the legs and teamed with a bush jacket. Trousers are pencil slim, just like the matador's costume.

The matador vest was reworked, proposing them as bustiers that worn outside. Done in red tartan and black & white checks, it emphasized the waist and the hourglass silhouette.
The matador cape, or the Traje de Luces, sans the sequins became smock and trench coats, with the sequins replaced by floral embroidery or appliqué. The ‘capote de paseo’ or dress cape was incorporated in suit jackets as elaborate sleeves. It was also reworked as puff sleeves for dresses.

Even the bull found its way on the skirts and blouses, even on the coats, not as an illustration, but the pattern of their coat or skin.

And though some fashion pundits would say that the wide belts are actually corset belts, they were actually inspired by the gaucho cowboys' belts that are usually wide.

It's a true bull run, with its high energy and excitement and the mystique exuded by the matador and bullfighting itself.

http://www.fashionwindows.com/runway_shows/kenzo/f071.asp

Kenzo Spring/Summer 2007

Theme: Love Affair with the Desert

Inspiration: Henri Matissehe, the founder of the fauvist art movement, which was recognized by simplified lines, deep bright colours and expressive spontaneity that gave the paintings real vibrant emotion.

Designer: Antonio Marras

http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/show.aspx/full-length-photos/id,4106/Page,1

A) Colour family For the whole collection

Contrasting colour scheme (Triad, Complementary)
1. Three primary colours: Red, Yellow and Blue
2. Two secondary colours: Green and Pink Variations in value and chroma of red violet
Related colour scheme

3. Achromatic: Black and White

At the first glance, the sight was attracted by the deep bright colours (Red, Yellow, Blue, Green and Pink).But in a deeper sense, over 50% are dominated by achromatic (Black and White), the second major are Red and Green which are counted for about 30% and the remaining 20% are shared by Yellow, Blue and Pink.

B) Principle of colour usage

The main principle is the Principle of Order. There is an orderly plan: using deep bright colour (Red, Yellow, Blue, Green and shocking pink) to complement achromatic (Black and White) and two assistant principles:

1. Alternation of colour

2. Sequence of colour

And some other principles are scattered in the whole collection such as,

3. Principle of Resemblance

4. Principle of Novelty

Even lots of colours are used in the whole collection, variety of values (light and dark) and chromas (bright and dull) all help to balance colour schemes. The principle of order enables the combination of colour in a systematic way thereby harmony is created.

Finding of Kenzo Spring/Summer 2007

Love Affair With The Desert

PARIS, Oct 11, 2006/ FW/ --- With Antonio Marras, a collection is not just a set of clothes for the season, it is also poetry in motion, the lines of the poem defined by the clothes, the beauty is seen from the outside and also perceived between the lines as each model passes by.

The stage set was elaborate; a scene from the desert, the starkness of its beauty hits you the moment you walk in. The blue sky is the backdrop and the soft music of a love song; about two lovers separated and will meet again in the same place they said goodbye to each other filled the air.

The first model walks in, her steps measured as in thought, her face somber. She wears a shocking pink pantsuit set; the trousers relaxed but hip hugging. The top was a long – sleeved black & white stripes layered with a short-cropped green vest. She wore the traditional headdress of an African woman.

As each model passes, you perceive her as the same woman, lovelorn and missing her love, waiting for her lover to come back. She passes the same path everyday, always somber, but sometimes wear a small smile.

You see her whole wardrobe, from the 1950s inspired swimsuits to off-the-shoulder blouses and A-line skirts, to short paired with a suit jacket, to ¾ sleeves printed minis with a deep V-neckline inspired by the traditional Moroccan costume.

She wears wedge heels that sometimes come as a full shoe or as sandals. Her purses ranged from tiny to hold just a pair of sunglasses, or a clasp or a tubular tote to hold a beach towel.

At night, she sometimes wears an all white pantsuit set, the trousers slim and with a cummerbund belt, the top an off-the-shoulder V-neck encrusted with crystals.

She's hauntingly beautiful, her clothes poetically stunning. And as she brings us through the whole summer, from day to night, from work to play, she continues to be the woman in love.

The ending was dramatic. A loose-fitting gown in floral printed chiffon, the train about 25 feet long! The music reaches its crescendo; the woman speaks, talking about her lost love and her long wait for his return.

It was as magical as the desert that inspired it and Antonio Marras's poetry when it comes to his creations has no rival!

http://www.fashionwindows.com/runway_shows/kenzo/s071.asp

Colour and Culture

All men in suit are almost the same: Black suit jacket, Black trousers, Black leather shoes and Black suitcast, except their dress shirt and tie. Their colours add a special touch to differentiate every white collar.